Standard Float w/ Wing Nut
The Float Valve with Wing nut is an excellent and simple way to keep sumps/tanks/reservoirs full of RO water. Recommended anytime when using a Hydraulic Automatic Shutoff Valve (below), or just as a top level control. Adjustable arm can be used in the vertical or horizontal position. NSF-approved PVC with stainless steel hardware. Replaceable seals are made of long-wearing, chemical-resistant Santoprene(R) rubber.
- 1/4" tubing inlet and free flow outlet
- Flow rate of 1.5 GPM at 40 PSI
- Tested to 100 PSI
- Flange to float tip measurement is 6.5" - Inlet adds approximately 1" to overall length
Includes: Jam Nut, Sealing Washer, JACO Compression Nut and Polyethylene Float.
Hydraulic Automatic Shut Off Kit
Prevent RO system drain and membrane damage with a hydraulic automatic shutoff (ASO) valve. This high pressure ASO is designed to shut off at 60% of line pressure. Safely shuts down RO units faster than traditional ASO valves. When the back pressure is released, water production resumes. Built-in ports for use with any reverse osmosis system using 1/4" tubing.
This High Pressure ASO is designed to shut off at 60% of line pressure and has for Quick Connect 1/4" polyethylene tubing connections. This unit is tested and certified by the WQA Gold Seal program against NSF/ANSI 58 standards.
Kit includes: Installation Diagram - 1/4" Inline Check Valve - 4-Way Automatic Shut off Valve
Shop all Aquarium RO & Deionization Units
With just a few, easy-to-get items, you can turn an inconvenient process into a breeze. The following setup will automatically get you RO water, condition it, and pump it back into your aquarium with little effort from you!
The 5 components you will need:
- Float valve kit.
- New, heavy-duty, plastic container with lid. It must not contain any metal that would come in contact with the water. A 55-gallon trash container works great.
- Submersible pump strong enough to push water from the container to the aquarium(s).
- Flexible tubing sized to the pump output and long enough to go from container to aquarium(s).
- 200-watt aquarium heater and floating thermometer.
First, choose a less popular faucet near a drain (utility room and basement sinks work great) that you can dedicate for RO water production.
To use all your faucets while the RO is running, you will need a few extra items. Install a saddle valve for the intake (just like you would for an icemaker) and a drain saddle valve for the waste line. Extra RO tubing may also be needed.
Hook up the RO intake and then place the unit on the floor or on a shelf. Wash out the new container with plain water and a clean cloth. Assemble the shutoff valve and float switch per the manufacturer's directions. Attach the waste water line to the sink or drain. Now you are ready to make RO water. Cover the container with the lid to protect it against contaminants. It will automatically shut off, so you can run it while you are sleeping or away.
The Final Steps
After enough water is gathered, set the submersible pump and heater into the container of water and plug them in. This will automatically mix the water and bring it up to the same temperature as your aquarium. Then, add a product such as R/O Right to properly re-mineralize the water for freshwater aquariums, or slowly add marine salt for saltwater aquariums.
When correct parameters are met, turn off the pump and heater, and attach tubing to the pump. Put the other end of the tubing in the aquarium to be filled, and turn on the pump. Just turn the pump off when the correct water level is achieved, and you are done.