Enjoy superior aquarium quality through improved ozone injection. Ocean Images Inc H2Ozone 120V Aquarium UV Ozonator offers a major breakthrough in aquarium ozone technology featuring low-power consumption, sustained ozone output level and long product life! High-output UV lamp generates ozone with just 10W of power and unlike Corona Discharge (CD) type ozonators, humidity does not affect ozone production for a sustained ozone output level of 35mg/hr. Onboard computer regulates ozone generation functions to gently power the unit to further extend and sustain ozone yield.
Ocean Images Inc H2Ozone 120V Aquarium UV Ozonator features advanced electronics and state-of-the-art ozone generator technology to effectively raise ORP (Oxidation Reduction Potential) level of aquarium water. Properly elevated ORP levels help break down harmful aquarium waste products, yellowing compounds and suppress parasitic, bacterial and fungal activity for crystal clear water AND a healthier environment for aquarium inhabitants. H2Ozone 120V Aquarium UV Ozonator is great for enhancing water quality and clarity of freshwater or saltwater aquariums.
H2Ozone Kit Includes: Electronic UV ozonator with 42" power cable, 6 ft length of 1/4" ozone safe tubing, 1/4" x 1/4" ozone safe Popette check valve, 3/8" x 1/4" tubing reducer, 2 stainless steel mounting screws, owner's manual, and 1 year warranty from date of purchase.
Note: To maintain optimum performance, replace the high-output UV bulb every 9000-10,000 hours of run time.
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Special Note: UV lamp may not ignite at temperatures below 50 degrees F. In an outdoor pond situation, if the unit is to operate in these temperatures it will need to be placed in a warm location and have the tubing run to the pond.
Your H2OZONE UV ozonator is virtually maintenance free. Should foreign matter enter the bulb chamber, the bulb may be cleaned (after allowing bulb to cool to room temperature) with Isopropyl alcohol and a lint free cloth making sure no oil from your skin remains on the bulb when plugged back in. Always be sure to disconnect power before removing end plates of ozonator as UV RAYS CAN BE HARMFUL TO VISION! It is recommended to replace the high-output UV bulb every 9000-10,000 hours of run time. After this amount of running hours, ozone output will be reduced.
Recommended Methods for Utilizing Ozone
Another method of utilizing your ozonator is to connect your ozone safe airline tubing from the ozonator to the venturi intake of a powerhead (if the powerhead is so equipped) and place in the sump of the filter. Though extremely effective also, this method usually results in somewhat less contact time between ozone molecules and water, which in turn would potentially require ozone to run for longer periods of time to achieve the same result. If utilizing an ORP controller, the reading will be in millivolts (mV), which measures the oxidation ability of the water. As ozone is applied, the ORP level increases. Natural seawater has an ORP value of 350-400 mV. We recommend maintaining a level of 250-300 mV. You should never exceed an ORP of 400 mV in your aquarium.
Should you choose not to use an ORP controller, always be conservative. Increasing run time gradually by 1 hour per 24-hour day until desired effect is reached. It is important to remember that very low doses can yield excellent results in most cases, and that overdosing can be harmful to aquarium inhabitants. MORE IS NOT ALWAYS BETTER! The goal when introducing ozone into your system is for all of the ozone to break down in the sump of your filter or protein skimmer. You do not want ozone to escape freely into your aquarium, as it will oxidize organic matter in there, which will cause damage to fish's gills and invertebrate's tissue. You also do not want high concentrations of ozone to escape into the air, as it is a lung irritant in high levels.
Placing a small bag of carbon in the filter sump and /or on top of your protein skimmer will quickly break down any residual ozone molecules and we recommend using an ozone test kit periodically to make sure that none is escaping the reaction chamber into your aquarium. H2OZONE ozonator is not rated for a certain size aquarium as it is not just the volume of water but the level of organic load present in the aquarium or pond and the length of run time of the ozonator that need to be taken into consideration.
Keep in mind the general rule of 5mg per 25gals, but this rule is FLEXIBLE! Doses as low as 1-2 mg per 25 gals., depending on bio-load, may be sufficient to maintain desired effect, so again...DON'T BE AFRAID TO START WITH SHORT RUN TIMES AND INCREASE AS NEEDED!
|Q.||Can I leave ozone running when I medicate my aquarium?|
|A.||The only medications that can be used with the ozone running are copper medications such as Seachem's Cupramine. All other medications such as formaldehyde, all antibiotics and any dyes such as malachite green, or methyline blue will be quickly broken down in the presence of ozone, so be sure to shut ozone before treatment with any meds other than copper.
|Q.||How do I know if there is any ozone getting back into my aquarium from the protein skimmer or ozone reactor?|
|A.||By placing a small portion of activated carbon in a filter bag and allowing the water that exits the protein skimmer or reactor to flow over the carbon, the ozone molecules will be quickly broken down and converted back to oxygen. Starting with a small amount of ozone and increasing gradually until desired effect is reached may leave very little residual ozone to even have to contend with. It is possible to essentially match the amount of ozone to the level of organics, which when combined will result in complete or near complete utilization of the ozone. Placing a similar portion of activated carbon on the exhaust port of your skimmer will also neutralize any airborne residual ozone.
|Q.||If ozone is so good at oxidizing organics, and killing bacteria and other organisms, why doesn't it kill the "good bacteria" in my aquarium?|
|A.||The beneficial bacteria are not "free floating" in your aquarium water. They are attached to the surfaces of your filter media, gravel or sand, decorations, the sides of your aquarium etc. When ozone is administered properly, it will have little or no contact with these surfaces, as the ozone will generally be broken down and converted back to pure oxygen by the time the water makes it back into your aquarium.
|Q.||How do I know if I'm using ENOUGH /TOO MUCH ozone on my aquarium?|
|A.||Firstly, remember that people generally don't wake up in the morning to find they've wiped their tank out by UNDER ozonating their system! The reason most hobbyists use ozone on their aquariums and ponds in the first place is to establish and maintain excellent water clarity and to aid in the break down and removal of organics that accumulate in the water over time. Be sure to start with small amounts of ozone and increase gradually just until the desired level is achieved and you will find it a lot harder to get into trouble by over dosing with ozone!
Hobbyists often go by the philosophy that MORE IS BETTER when it comes to a lot of things like feeding, medicating, stocking their tanks, or using ozone! The hobbyist may buy a huge powerful ozonator (much larger than necessary) and connect it to an ORP controller, (which by the way we do recommend as well just not to an oversized ozonator), run the ORP up to the highest recommended level only to have a mechanical failure or calibration issue occur, resulting in a RAPID OVER-OZONATION situation, which could quickly wipe out their population of aquatic pets. So with that being said, do you abandon the use of ozone altogether? Absolutely not! Just like you wouldn't abandon the use of medications that could save the life of your fish when used properly but quickly kill them if severely overdosed!
|Q.||Is it ok for me to look at the UV bulb in my ozonator for even a short amount of time when the bulb is lit?|
|A.||In a word...NO!!!!!!! At no time is it safe to look at the UV bulb when lit, even for seconds at a time. The UV produces light of a spectrum that is capable of doing great irreparable damage (which by the way is painless but no less dangerous so you wouldn't feel that anything bad is occurring until it's too late!). This is true of the bulb in your UV sterilizer too! It's perfectly ok to look at the glow that you see coming from the air intake hole but never look up into the chamber where the bulb is mounted when lit. Unplug it. Then you can look at the bulb as much as you want!
|Q.||Can I use ozone on my reef aquarium?|
|A.||Absolutely! Ozone can be especially beneficial in reef environments. Because of the fact that many reef animals are dependent upon correct light intensity and spectrum, it is not only desirable to maintain crystal clarity with no color tint but it can mean the success or failure of certain coral species in your reef. Intensity and spectrum can be altered drastically and though this occurs sometimes gradually, it goes unnoticed until the light dependent corals begin to show signs of being "not happy." And while the hobbyist is busy watching pH, total alkalinity, etc., they often fail to realize that the pricey highly sophisticated light system they put over their reef is not being utilized to its fullest because the light that reaches the animals is greatly affected when the water has a tint to it.
Another great reason for utilizing ozone on your reef system is because corals have evolved to play a very sophisticated game of "chemical warfare" to protect themselves from other species encroaching into their "zones." Hobbyists often times try to keep species of corals together that would never tolerate being so close to one another in the wild. This "forced" closeness can and often does make it extremely difficult to have success with certain species. Ozone used properly will break down these chemicals that are given off by corals unlike activated carbon or any other absorbing type resins used alone in aquariums.