The 5 components you will need:
Float valve kit.
- New, heavy-duty, plastic container with lid. It must not contain any metal that would come in contact with the water. A 55-gallon trash container works great.
Submersible pump strong enough to push water from the container to the aquarium(s).
Flexible tubing sized to the pump output and long enough to go from container to aquarium(s).
200-watt aquarium heater and
First, choose a less popular faucet near a drain (utility room and basement sinks work great) that you can dedicate for RO water production.
To use all your faucets while the RO is running, you will need a few extra items. Install a
saddle valve for the intake (just like you would for an icemaker) and a
drain saddle valve for the waste line. Extra
RO tubing may also be needed.
Hook up the RO intake, then place the unit on the floor or on a shelf. Wash out the new container with plain water and a clean cloth. Assemble the shutoff valve and float switch per the manufacturer’s directions. Attach the waste water line to the sink or drain. Now you are ready to make RO water. Cover the container with the lid to protect it against contaminants. It will automatically shut off, so you can run it while you are sleeping or away.
The final steps
After enough water is gathered, set the submersible pump and heater into the container of water and plug them in. This will automatically mix water and bring it up to the same temperature as your aquarium. Then, add a product such as
R/O Right to properly re-mineralize the water for freshwater aquariums, or slowly add
marine salt for saltwater aquariums.
When correct parameters are met, turn off the pump and heater, and attach tubing to the pump. Put the other end of the tubing in the aquarium to be filled, and turn on the pump. Just turn the pump off when the correct water level is achieved, and you are done.